Didn't think it was possible, but after the eMachines board and PSU fried, I think it took the keyboard and mouse with it. I tried a known good board and it worked, but my right mouse button didn't. Got it all straightened out and working fine.

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Thanks for the response. Didn't think it was possible, but after the eMachines board and PSU fried, I think it took the keyboard and mouse with it. I tried a known good board and it worked, but my right mouse button didn't. Got it all straightened out and working fine. Thanks for the response. Try clearing the bios/cmos using the jumper on the board, page 10 in you're manual.

Than try booting. See if you're keyboard allows you to get into the bios/cmos. I'm guessing you tried another keyboard?

You can also buy a PS2 - to -USB Y adapter. This is what one looks like. If you bought an AGP graphics card lately you might have also received a single PS2 to USB adapter free.

Like this one. It's not uncommon for the the lights to function & yet the keyboard not function.

A single pin within the PS2 on the keyboard could be bent or bad or not seating correctly in you're new board. Mike Posted on May 31, 2008. Make sure this hard drive is getting power Test or replace your PSU power supply unit one bad/faulty lead can cause a computer with lots of problems continually rebooting or failing to detect your drive replace all the leads that attach to your hard drive including electrical extensions + IDE,SATA the ones that attach from your motherboard to hard drive make sure all leads that are attached to your drives dvd cd 3 1/2 inch floppy have secure connections and are not faulty or just replace them they are probably old and faulty? Hope this helps?

Nov 24, 2010 . If both motherboards are LGA775 socket, then the next concern is whether or not the case is capable of having the new motherboard installed into it. Disconnect all power cables to all dv drives or cd drives and hard drives. Disconnect all ribbons from drives to the mother board. If you can get to all of the screws that hold the motherboard into the case, you get away without removing drives. Once you've got the motherboard then you can disconnect the power cable from the motherboard.

Remove the memory chips, disconnect the sound cable from the old motherboard. Install the memory chips onto the new mobo, Connect the power cable to the new mobo, then install the new mobo into the case. Replace the ribbons from the drives to the mobo, replace the power cables to the drives and reinstall the sound cable to the cd or dv drive.

You should be done now. Dec 13, 2009 .

Your getting power to your PSU, via the green light on your mobo. Bus Driver Game Crack. Verify the PSU has a green light(most emachines do) it sort of sounds stupid but, check the connection of the cable coming from the front of the case(the wires that connect to the mobo to the power button on the outside of the case. If all else fails, take the pc out of the case. Put all components on a static free bag and start to rebuild your PC(without a case).this will rule out a short on the PC case, and faulty wiring from the case. Pretty much sounds like you've been through almost every step except replacing the PSU(you just said you tested/but your getting power to the PSU) hope some of this helped Sep 04, 2009 .

I had the same problem. I bought the M848A from Newegg in an attempt to save my trusty Athlon 2600+ CPU and a fancy Raedon 512mb AGP card which I salvaged out of my old broken down system. I thought it would be a good time to update the RAM so I bought 2 gigs of OCZ 3200 DDR400 to go with. Problems: (1) First the damn thing wouldn't boot past the post screen. It would simply cycle thru post over and over. Fixed: The microsoft XPpro operating system was corrupt.

The new board hated the old configs from the previous system. After trying (and failing) a os repair, I ended up simply doing a clean intall with great results. Board was stable worked great for a week. Only had one glitch. (2) The board would only recognize and post ONE of the 2 gigs of ram I bought. I raided all the CMOS settings, and downloaded all the user manuals I could get a hold of and found no answers to this curious problem. On a whim, I opened the case and switched their locations back and forth which led me to.